“Keep going,” he said with satisfaction, “and you’d end up on Rome’s Esquiline Hill.” Descending into the Anio Vetus offered me a rare sense of discovery in one of the world’s most ...

the Vatican’s Sistine Chapel is not the only one in Rome. And the one inside the Basilica Papale di Santa Maria Maggiore, on the Esquiline Hill, is much quieter. “Sistine”, it turns out ...