Khao pad poo, or crab fried rice, is one of those dishes that seems to be on almost every Thai menu. Too often, it’s an afterthought and even if the word “crab” does a lot to sell the dish, ...

Appetizers, from left: spicy mackerel salad (steamed rice noodle salad with mixed herbs and fried mackerel) and pie tee (crispy pastry basket with shrimp, jicama and crab filling) along with a ...

Turmeric-stained kua kling, one of Jitlada’s many incendiary Southern Thai curries perfected ... memory over just-fine versions of fried rice with wisps of crab or chewy-oily bits of Wagyu ...