Three fish experts explain how to choose the best anchovies. Ah, anchovies! As an Italian-American, I am no stranger to the rich, salty flavors hidden in spaghetti sauce or creamy salad dressings.

This is not so much a niçoise recipe as a guide. Feel free to add as much or as little of each ingredient as you like - what's important is that every ingredient is as good quality as possible.

In the waters off San Miguel Island, those sea lions and birds work alongside tuna to hunt anchovies. Aside from a few camp sites and moderate tourism, you won’t find much humanity on San Miguel ...

According to harbor officials, while the anchovies are here once again, a piece of equipment essential for aerating the water during such invasions is undergoing routine maintenance and unavailable.

This extraordinary elixir is for me the very apogee of anchovydom; for the anchovy lover, there can be no purer celebration of its qualities. It’s a dip to be eaten with crudités, drink in hand ...