December 2024 was a whirlwind for the San Diego surfer, and may have destroyed ... to Oahu for his first-ever appearance at the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational. It was his first time he ...

Waianae High School junior Noa “Bubba” Pu‘u, son of lifeguard and waterman Mel Pu‘u and grandson of renowned surfer Buffalo Keaulana, took home the Duke Lifesaver Award on Wednesday night, continuing ...

arranged Eddie Aikau a hotel that would take him in. However, Eddie was isolated, a long way from home, and felt his teammates had in some way deserted him. After he’d surf in his heat he would just ...

What follows is a short detour in conversation toward the early British explorers’ habit of introducing vermin to foreign lands and Captain Cook’s gruesome demise in Hawaii before returning to the ...

Jeremy Flores was diagnosed with a brain tumour in his early 30s. Many surgeons considered it inoperable. Yet Olympic glory ...

The Foam Wreckers Tour is the anti-surf-contest surf contest where only soft-boards are allowed and anyone can participate. It is minimal rules and maximum fun. Red Bull Foam Wreckers / MALCOLM ...

Jamie Clinard remembers what it was like growing up a surfer girl in San Clemente — wanting to ride waves, but so intimidated as the only girl among the boys that she found herself stuck on dry ...

The Surfer is directed by Lorcan Finnegan (Vivarium, 2019; Nocebo, 2022) and written by Thomas Martin (both are Irish). They were inspired, says Finnegan, by John Cheever’s The Swimmer as well as ...